Thank you all so much for your replies! I will check all of your suggestions out. Kapoho is sounding

First trip to the Big Island coming up in September. Flying into Hilo and have four days before we go to the Kona side for three days at a fancy resort. Need help with where to stay, what to do. Since we will be having the big resort experience later in the trip, we are more interested in keeping it low-key on the front end. We know we will spend our first night in Hilo (we get in kind of late) and at least one night near Volcanoes National thrifty car rent Park, but other than that, we're wide open. Your thoughts?
Most people spend two nights at Volcano, then head west. Hilo is a commercial thrifty car rent port and a government town. It's tried hard NOT to be a tourist mecca. The lodging choices are pretty sad, but some of that is because the area seldom has a dry day (read: mold). Can you stay just Volcano for two nights, then head up the Kamakua Coast; see Waipio; drive from 'wet side' to 'dry side' in Waimea, procede down to your digs in...where, Kohala? From Kohala you'd go south to see Place of Refuge, Hulihee Palace, Capt. Cook -- spend a few hours in touristy Kona Town -- back to Kohala and out of the vog.
For the rest of the time on the East Side, consider renting a place in Kapoho. Check out VRBO, you can get a place right on the tidepools with beautiful ocean/sunrise views and snorkel right off your lanai.
Volcano is about an hour from Kapoho, and you can do Volcano Park in a day. There is no lava flowing in the park right now. There is a "glow" in Halema'uma'u on clear nights if you want to see some volcano action, but no red lava visible unless you do a helicopter trip.
There is a free zoo between Hilo and the Volcano. Also go to Botanical garden north of Hilo. Make sure you have Malasadas at Tex Drive In in Honoka'a. (Portugese donuts fresh out of the oil and then filled with stuff. Heaven!!)
One of the restaurants we loved in Pahoa (we went with Matnikstym) was Kaleo"s. thrifty car rent We ate there four times in two weeks! I had their special fish dish of the day each time and loved every one. Also, they have a musician, and if you can dance a hula, you get a free dessert. (I did, twice.) DH and DS ate at the Mexican place in Pahoa and thought it was very poor.
We spent 3 nights thrifty car rent in Hilo and took in a variety of sites and activities. It was easy staying in Hilo and going to VNP to see what was doing during the day. (We are fortunate enough to have been there in 2006 and wer able to see the lava flowing). We drove back after dinner one night to try and see the glow, but it was too foggy and drizzly,cap it wasn't visible.
It's though a rain forest - and you hike down and across the mile or so floor of the cauldera - all the time saying to yourself - this hasn't blown since 1959 - but then a steam vent hisses and you pick up your step.
Thank you all so much for your replies! I will check all of your suggestions out. Kapoho is sounding like the place to be...? charnees--since we live in Denver, we get our fill of Mexican, so I doubt I would have even checked out the restaurant that disappointed you. BUT, I am not at all above doing a little hula for some dessert! Tomsd, that hike sounds great! We will definitely give it a try. Oregonmom, I've been told the malasadas are a major highlight--thanks for the tip on where to get 'em.
also, if you do end up staying in Kapoho, there is a very nice Hawaiian style market on Wednesday nights at Uncle Robert's Awa Bar in Kalapana (20 minute drive along the coast from Kapoha) Good food-everything from Thai to Mexican to Hawaiian to American, good music and hula, local style atmosphere, everyone welcome. If you're looking for something out of the ordinary touristy thing, consider this.